KPA Summer Tramp
Not too far, not too hard. Camping in the Hawdon. Arthur's Pass National Park.
By Pat Barrett
"Cicadas fill the day with their soporific chorus as we break camp and head across the golden flats to the roadhead shepherding two contented children with memories of a camp not too far from home."
Pat Barrett
Fact File
The Hawdon Shelter is reached on a gravel road approx 4km from the Mt White turn-off on SH73. (Arthur's Pass highway) Excellent camping can be found on the western side of the Hawdon approximately one kilometre above the confluence with Sudden Valley Stream. The Hawdon Shelter area also offers good campsites though water is not immediately available here.
Grade: Easy.
Time to campsites: 30-45 minutes.
Map: K33
Pick a place, I thought, make it easy to reach and let the tentsite have all the necessary prerequisites of a classic kiwi camp - a flat, soft place to lie in tussock or grass, a stream nearby, an interface of forest and flats, and a beautiful backdrop of mountains providing that all important aspect. New Zealand's Arthur's Pass National Park, especially the Hawdon Valley, offers all of these requirements and I could recall a place not far from the road where idyllic camping terrain abounds. It is a place through which I had often marched, heading for the distant mountains, ruing the fact that I could not pause longer and enjoy its tranquil pleasures especially during the long summer evenings.
Hefting our packs at Hawdon Shelter we pass briefly through the forest margin and out onto the stony riverbed of the Hawdon over which arches a flawless blue sky and the promise of a warm day. We easily ford the river (sometimes it is a fearsome torrent) to gain the grassy flats on the west bank and wander upstream to where I remember the camping sites lie. They are not hard to locate, in fact the abundance of suitable spots makes choosing the best one a rather long process especially when Anna-Marie and Ben offer their preferences. Yet this is part of the attraction of such a short trip - time to discuss the merits of various camp spots and absorb the beauty of the park without the intrusion imposed by limited hours and the pressure to reach a far off destination.
Soon the tents are up and sleeping bags, mats, books, a few soft toys, and assorted paraphernalia are, either employed, or scattered about in the soft grass as the day warms and a gentle breeze wafts through the glade, discouraging the sandflies. Sandflies, those ubiquitous little biting insects, found throughout the New Zealand bush are both a blessing and a curse - they help to keep our mountain streams clean and pure but drive some campers to distraction. Nature sometimes provides a free remedy, wind, which prevents them landing on exposed flesh. It is worth keeping this in mind when pitching camp and when resting, however if this fails just cover up and search out the repellent.
It's time to explore and we head off up valley following the old flood track in through the beech forest where the silvery water of feeder creeks whisper past banks of mosses and ferns. The subdued light reaching the forest floor reveals patterned tree trunks and leaf litter scattered by the wind and some enchanting scenes for little eyes. Everything is explored and marvelled at and as the afternoon wanes we return to camp to read, play, and cook a tasty meal of salmon and pasta as evening light caresses the valley. No camp with children is, I believe, complete without a robust campfire and toasted marshmallows.
We all have our share crouching around the fire with long twigs while a starry banner of sky revolves above. There is still one more ritual to observe before sleep, a night time story in the tent snuggled into our sleeping bags while moreporks (native owl) hoot from the bush.
Morning heralds another spectacular mountain day and the time to trek to the far side of the valley, ford the streams, search for crawlies, throw rocks in the river, hunt for honey dew in the forest, and relax in the sun as the billy steams on the primus promising another brew. Idyllic? Yes indeed, but so often overlooked when so close to hand and so easily reached. Cicadas fill the day with their soporific chorus as we break camp and head across the golden flats to the roadhead shepherding two contented children with memories of a camp not too far from home.
Age Categories for summer camps
- Infants to 6 months
Yes, it is possible for very little ones to go camping, but preferably at a roadside camp and not one you need to walk to. However many will find that this age group is just too much work to consider it a holiday, especially with bottle/breast feeding.
- 6 to12 months
At this age things are getting a little easier, though it will most probably be a roadside camp which makes things easier for all the extra gear you need to take - porta-cots, nappies, bottles and the like. But if you are determined to be adventurous and the weather forecast is benign you can find some wonderful 'wilderness' camps that are easily accessible by car. Or you might like to try a motor camp for a little more convenience.
- 1 to 4 years
Roadside camps are still the order of the day here. Though there are now possibilities, particularly with the upper end of this age group, to extend the camp to an easier walk-in option. Or perhaps just try a river, lake or seaside site and enjoy day walks and paddling.
- 4 - 5 years and over
This age group loves to explore and if you make it easy for them, and you, go with another family (which is a good idea for all camps), and are well equipped with lightweight gear (tent, sleeping bags, clothing) then you can enjoy some remarkable locations away from the activity of regular camping areas. However you need to be self-contained and have an awareness of the potential dangers associated with camping in the wilderness with young children. In New Zealand the dangers are mostly associated with the weather and rivers. So be careful out there and check the forecast before you go bush.
Pat Barrett |
